Gotta love a holiday where everyone gets together to eat blintzes and cheesecake! That’s just what people do on Shavuot, a Jewish holiday that happened recently. I made this still life about the dairy inspired meal that is traditionally eaten on this day.

During the Seder dinner on the Jewish holiday of Passover (which was a couple weeks back), the bible story of the Jews fleeing slavery in Egypt is read. As the story progresses, foods are eaten that represent different parts of the story. This is a photo I took of the items that go on a Seder plate as part of a photo project I am doing on Jewish holiday meals.

The orange to the plate is a modern, more progressive addition. Rooted in feminism, the orange symbolizes the inclusion of the LGBT community and others who may be marginalized within the Jewish community.

I am working on a new series of still life photos based on meals eaten on different Jewish holidays. This photo represents Tu B’Shevat, a holiday in late winter when, in anticipation of spring, it is tradition to eat 15 different kinds of fruit, nuts and grains.

Tu B’shevat is also known as the celebration of the trees, so in a way, it’s Jewish Earth Day.

Umamimart finally relaunched last month. We made it! It’s now, I hope, faster and easier to navigate for ya’ll– and of course, so much prettier. Although we’re still tirelessly trying to work out the kinks, I think this move marks a new era for Umamimart. Heck Yah!

To celebrate, I made a pitstop to NYC last month to check into UM’s birthplace, where I consider to be its homebase, no matter where any of the writers might be in the world. I somehow rounded up over 20 people to join me for a special dinner at Sammy’s Roumanian Steakhouse, a Lower East Side institution for classic Jewish cuisine.

Sammy’s is, in a word, Crazy Town. I knew this the moment I walked in, saw all the pastel balloons flying everywhere, the streamers hanging from the ceiling, the small dancefloor with a little DJ area, and one long keyboard set up in the center. It’s a place I had heard about during my years in NYC, but never had the opportunity to go. I had deeply regretted it since moving, and so I thought it would be the perfect venue for the relaunch party.

You won’t find any two tops here either– all the tables were set up for at least 15 people. None of us quite knew what we were getting ourselves into, but figured that we couldn’t be all that disappointed when there’s a keyboard involved.

As usual, here’s what everyone thought. All photos taken by Erin, Alda, Kiwa, and myself.

LAUREN
Words may not be able to capture the full experience that is Sammy’s, as this establishment is not so much a restaurant but rather a cleverly disguised sideshow. The closest analogy would be to a thinly plotted action film like Die Hard or The Fast and The Furious in which plot is sacrificed for the pure shock and awe of fantastic pyrotechnics, improbable chases, and large balding heros.

YAMAHOMO
I felt like I was at a bad Jewish fire hall wedding of some sort.

KAYOKO
The walls are covered from top to bottom with decades-old photographs. Sammy’s has been keepin’ it real and holdin’ it down at this exact location for over 30 years.

PAYSTYLE
Of course let’s not forget the most important (and amazing) aspect, the food. In my experience old school spots usually cruise on reputation and reputation alone (see Smith & Wollensky).  Not so at Sammy’s.  Every bite I tried was delicious.

KAYOKO
Everything was coursed out– cold appetizers, fried foods, then the meats. We were all fascinated by the schmaltz (chicken fat), which I had read came in a bottle on every table.

PAYSTYLE
The schmaltz was something I wished I could have bathed in. I would’ve poured it over my head if I had the parlor all to myself.

JENNY
I was excited about the schmaltz on the table but was unsure how to use it.

KIWA
The pickles were great, though the pickled green tomatoes were a bit too tart for me.

KAYOKO
Now, onto the belle of the ball: I introduce you to The Chicken Liver.

YAMAHOMO
I don’t remember any part of the food, except for completely utterly gross chicken liver that tasted AWESOME.

KAYOKO
Here’s a video I took of our guy pouring in the schmaltz and mixing the livers and carmelized onions altogether. Did you know heaven comes in a metal bowl?

KIWA
The chicken liver was my favorite– totally blew me away. I don’t know what the hell was in there but holy crap, it was amazing.

JENNY
The chopped chicken liver blew all other chicken liver out of the water and was hands down the best thing in the meal.

KAYOKO
Dude, those carmelized onions paired with the livers… incredible. I loved the rolled cabbage too.

JENNY
The fried items (in the appetizer course and the latkes) were stupendous.

KIWA
The potato pancakes looked so good that I actually broke my vow to give up fried food during Lent and scarfed one down. Totally worth it.

KAYOKO
Kiwa, I can not believe you gave up fried food for lent. I stand in awe.

KIWA
The grilled sausages were incredible — I loved the way they crumbled and were so juicy.

KAYOKO
OMG, those sausages!!!! Such plump, moist pieces of… nevermind.

PAYSTYLE
And last but certainly not least, the surprisingly tender, garlicky, and absolutely delicious steak.

KIWA
The downside was that I had eaten so much by the time the steak came out that I was only able to manage one strip of that grilled deliciousness before calling it quits. Too bad cause if I had room I would have licked the plate clean. My least favorite dish was the salmon, which I thought was bland and unnecessary given how much food we already had on the table.

KAYOKO
The steak was off the hook!!! Perfectly cooked, so tender, and not so much seasoning so  that garlic spread really came through with true bite. I agree with Kiwa on the salmon– it was really not fresh and unedible.

LAUREN
In Sammy’s case the poor quality and flavor of the grease soaked meats and potatoes was over shadowed by the sheer magnitude of dishes and vodka that continued to flood the table. But the table and the Roumanian “cuisine” it held was just the tip of the proverbial vodka encased iceberg.

YAMAHOMO
One thing I fully remember (or partially) is brilliant idea of freezing the vodka. Did you all see what I did with my Sammy’s t-shirt? Alcohol gives me creative inspiration. Thanks Corey for helping me.

KIWA
Oh, LOVED the old-school soda bottles for the make-your-own egg creams! I never knew what went into one so it was interesting to see how easy it was to make. (Paystyle showed us.)

KIWA
The rugelach was pretty blah too but at that point I was so stuffed I didn’t really care about dessert.

JENNY
The rugelach was remarkably good. I previously couldn’t have imagined getting excited about rugelach, but these were pretty stellar.

KAYOKO
Sorry, no pics of the rugelach, but I agree with Jenny, they were excellent.

At the end, it was a bit pricey at $100/head (yipes!), but I think everyone felt that it was well worth it for the amount of fun that we had, in addition to all the food that was served.

JENNY
Overall the experience and service far exceeded my expectations, which is why I was fairly quick to get over my shock at the bill, once it was over. Sammy’s is a complete vortex of fun, and definitely unlike any place I’ve been to new york (maybe the closest comparison would be the Bulgarian Bar circa 2002- miss those days!). So much camraderie and dancing amongst the different tables and service people! That night I attributed it to the feeling of being on a cruise ship, in the best possible way. I don’t know if I’ll go back next weekend, or even for a good while, but it was the perfect venue for Umamimart and Umamifolks.

KAYOKO
Everyone had so much fun dancing before, during, and after dinner with one another in the restaurant, through the tables, on the chairs, on the dancefloor. We all got to know this dude really well.

LAUREN
The true delight was seeing how this Lower East Side restaurant suddenly morphed into a living breathing organism. The frequent lighting changes and DJ’s random collection of music typically reserved for Bar Mitzvas and weddings suddenly turned several large tables of strangers into a single winding chain of friends bonded by chaos, fat clogged arteries, and a shared unique experience that no outsider would ever believe.

PAYSTYLE
Sammy’s Roumanian is the type of spot I’d imagine a Jewish gangster from the back-in-the-days Lower East Side would want to have his last meal. For me it was a completely novel cultural experience, yet it still had the familiarity of the loud, boisterous family get togethers I’m used to. I felt as if I crashed a Jewish wedding, and nobody minded. Needless to say I’ll be heading back soon.

KIWA
I thought Sammy’s was totally amazing! I went in without very high expectations for the food because I expected it to be much more about the crazy Jewish Wedding experience, so I was pleasantly surprised to find that most everything I had was totally delicious.

KAYOKO
Let’s just say that Sammy’s is not the sort of place where you would go for a romantic dinner, or take your tame in-laws. It’s the equivalent of a night at your local, hole-in-the-wall stripclub– where the chicken liver is the ageless hottie with the perkiest boobies… who has been dancing at the same joint for 40 years.

Thank you everyone for coming out and making this Umamiventure an extra special one. See you at the next relaunch party!!!

This here is the tamest photo taken throughout the night. I love how this captures the very OPPOSITE of the Sammy’s experience. Ponder the Pickle, by Alda.

SAMMY’S ROUMANIAN STEAKHOUSE
157 Chrystie Street
NYC
T: 212.673.0330

Find more photos, and special portraits by Erin Gleeson, on the UM Flickr page:

*Umamiventures are organized monthly, traveling far and wide to find good, cheap grub off the beaten path.

**Become a Facebook Fan of UM to stay updated on all future trips!

Past Umamiventures include:
1.) Ocean Jewel Restaurant – Flushing, NYC; June 2007
2.) Red Hook Ball Fields - NYC; June 2007
3.) Taste of Jackson Heights – NYC; October, 2007
4.) Sripraphai Restaurant – Woodside, NYC; November 2007
5.) WINTERMARKET – South St. Seaport; December 2007
6.) Jackson Diner- Jackson Heights, NYC; January 2008
7.) Pacificana – Sunset Park, NYC; February 2008
8.) Puerto Alegre – The Mission, SF; March 2008
9.) Dinosaur BBQ – Harlem, NYC; April 2008
10.) Bohemian Hall and Beer Garden – Astoria, NYC; May 2008
11.) Brooklyn Banh Mi Crawl – Sunset Park, NYC; August 2008
12.) Sheapshead Bay Lobster Crawl – NYC; September 2008
13.) Flushing Food Circuit – NYC; October 2008
14.) Strong Beer Month – SF; March 2009
15.) Loisaida Throwback Crawl – NYC; April 2009
16.) Harley Farms Goat Dairy – Pescadero, CA; June 2009
17.) Tomales Bay Oyster Farm – Marshall, CA; August 2009
18.) Din Tai Fung – LA; September 2009
19.) Din Tai Fung – Tokyo; September 2009
20.) Schroeder’s Oktoberfest – SF; October 2009
21.) Fish Taco Crawl – San Diego; November 2009
22.) St. George Spirits & Hangar One Vodka -  Alameda; January 2010
22.5) Everett & Jones – OAK; January 2010

HELLO NEW YORKERS!

So I always said that when the big relaunch finally (finally!) happened, I would have a big party in NYC, no matter where I lived in the world. It’s where it all started! Without NYC, there would be no Umamimart– you better believe it. So I’m COMING!

After lots of deliberation, it has been decided to hold the big bash at the one and only Sammy’s Roumanian Steakhouse on Saturday February 20, 9pm. Pencil it in please!

I know you’ve heard of Sammy’s– it’s the NYC Jewish food institution, located underground in the Lower East Side. But like me, you’ve never quite had the opportunity to treat yourself to a night of steak and schmaltz. I feel your pain– I spent 6 years in NYC and never went and have regretted it deeply.

That is all about to change.

Ok, now the only downside is that this is a little pricier than the usual Umamiventure. I’ve calculated it out to be about $80/person after food, alcohol, tax and tip.

I know, I know. You’re thinking, “Kayoko, we’re in the middle of a fucking recession for god’s sake, what are you thinking?!?!”

But COME ON. $80 for steak and chopped liver + shots of ice cold Ketel One + a bottle of chicken grease on every table + dancing to live Yiddish music at the end of the night in a drunken haze. Are you convinced yet? The price is easily on par with a night of drinking at some lame douchy frat bar down the street.

Now, if there’s an overwhelming WTF-that’s-way-too-expensive reaction to Sammy’s, I totally understand, and I’m open to going elsewhere. I have a large table reserved at Sammy’s though, so let me know your thoughts asap!

Let’s do this! RSVP as usual on the FB Fanpage invite. Let me know in the comments if you’re bringing anyone so I can get an accurate headcount.

The new site has been such a major labor of love, and I need to celebrate with all of you appropriately, in UM’s Homeland. Can’t wait to see everyone!

Above pic from Lost City. It’s such a seedy picture, I love it.

For our final destination on our whirlwind 7-stop Lower East Side food extravaganza, we went to (where else?) THE FAMOUS Katz’s Deli. It’s been around since 1888, and every few years there is buzz of it shutting down, but I doubt this will ever happen. Not to Katz’s, NEVER! Their website boasts that it’s, “New York’s oldest and best delicatessen.” This is one of the rare occurrences that such a proclamation might actually be true.

To be honest, I was super apprehensive about going in: it was Sunday afternoon, and from my own experiences, that is not the ideal time to go. But we were on a Loisaida Umamiventure, so there was no way we could not represent. Plus, this was Paystyle’s most anticipated stop- can’t let the guy down, can we?

As imagined, we walked in and it was a friggin’ madhouse. You get a ticket at the door, which is essentially your identity within the world of Katz’s. DO NOT LOSE YOUR TICKET! You’ll be charged an outlandish $50 if you do, even if you didn’t eat anything. So staple that ticket onto your forehead if you must- DO NOT LOSE IT!

There’s wait service in the back, but if you want to real deal Katz’s experience, suck it up and get your ass in line. The lines are actually what intimidate me the most- it snakes all around the shop and you’ve got to be super assertive and know exactly what you want. Pastrami, brisket or corned beef? Fatty or lean? On rye? Pickels new or sour? Waaa! There’s an insider club language in here, and if you don’t know it, you’re screwed! Here’s an extensive, informative article from the NY Times about this particular language of the pastrami sandwich, via Todd.

This is probably why I was hesitant about coming into Katz’s- I took my parents here once and I seriously have never felt like a bigger tool of a NYer. Uhhh, what’s a new pickle??? I knew better this time around, thanks to our pickle stop. That’s the charm of NYC- it likes to test you a few times just to make sure you can hang. Bastard.

As you hop from one of the massive sandwich lines to the drinks line (below), your orders are stamped onto your ticket. No Katz’s meal is complete without a Dr. Brown’s celery soda, so make sure to get in the drinks line after you get your sandwich!

Meal of pastrami sandwich, matzo ball soup, a plate of both new and sour pickles, and a Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray soda.

My corned beef and pastrami sandwich. Yup, you can mix it up into one sandwich. Look at it, it’s a splendid tower of melt-in-your-mouth meat! The yellow mustard and distinct flavors of rye bread is really what makes this sandwich such an original.

Todd: Katz’s is in my opinion the gold standard for corned beef and pastrami, and it was very good that day. It has not been quite as good on other days. The rumor is that there are two key aspects to good pastrami. The first is that it needs to be steamed for quite a while- yes it’s already cooked but the steaming is what is supposed to make it tender and juicy. Steaming takes time and is also supposed to lead to product shrinkage.

The second key aspect is that Katz’s hand slices their meat, which is rumored to be better for flavor. I am not sure, I do think that hand slicing means better trimmed meat, which does make for a better sandwich, less nasty bits. I think Zabar’s makes a good sandwich: they sell made-to-order hot sandwiches, and while machine sliced, the meat is hand-trimmed.

Paystyle: For me, the true gem of the ‘hood, and the highlight of the crawl. Without question the most solid pastrami and corned beef sammys. Forget Carnegie Deli, or even Jerry’s or Canter’s in LA. This is it. One of the few tourist traps that locals also swear by, as do I. Can’t beat a Katz’s pastrami or reuben sammy with a Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray soda—the perfect pairing!

Thanks to everyone for making it out to this unforgettably hardcore Umamiventure. It was a blast!!! Check out all previous Umamiventures here. Thanks to Christy, Michelle, Jill and Jessie for the pictures. Make sure to join the UM Facebook group to stay updated on all future Umamiventures. Next one will be in the Bay Area- stay tuned!

From the Dumpling House, we started towards Houston Street to make a stop at Russ & Daughters (R&Ds). Full disclosure- I had NEVER stepped foot in this LES “appetizing” institution. SHAMEFUL!!! So this was a huge treat for me- why I never went is a mystery to me.

We walked past the weird bathroom building plopped in the middle of the Allen and Delancey. Do they ever open the actual bathrooms??? I always wonder when I walk by.

According to their awesomely informative website, Joel Russ opened his first shop of salt-cured fish on Orchard Street in the LES in 1914. He had three daughters who eventually joined the business. R&Ds is thought to be the first shop backended with the name “& Daughters.” Wow!!!

Today, R&Ds is on Houston, and their shop is a part of the National Register of Historic Places. Many family members- grand and great-grandchildren of Joel Russ- work there today. It’s a shop selling traditional Jewish smoked fish, schmears, salads, sweets and side dishes. They call this “appetizing.”

Here’s a bit about the concept from their website:
“Appetizing” is a Jewish food tradition that is most typical among American Jews, and it is particularly local to New York and New Yorkers. The word “appetizer” is derived from the Latin “appete,” meaning “to desire, covet, or long for.” Used as a noun, “appetizing” is most easily understood as “the foods one eats with bagels.” Its primary components are a variety of smoked and cured salmon, homemade salads, and cream cheeses… Continue here.

The interior of R&Ds is so delightful! It’s minimal and clean with their white tiled floors and all the fishes/appetizers/schmears are perfectly aligned in sparkling glass cases. Such eye-popping colors!

Caviar, roe, and schmears.

Olives and marinated fish.

Whole smoked trout and fish. Check out the variety!

Portrait of presumably the founder, Joel Russ.

Todd: In the herring and cream sauce department, I think Russ & Daughters is very good, better than the stuff from Zabar’s I bought to compare later (Zabar’s had a metallic aftertaste) . I should compare them against Barney Greenglass, my local area joint which some people think is the gold standard.

Kayoko: The cream and herring, with slices of raw onion, was unlike anything I’ve ever tried. Not unlike the flavors I remember from Sweden, though. I would never think to put these ingredients together, but the onions definitely offset the intensity of the herring.

Paystyle: R&Ds are great at what they do: smoked fish & confections. I always pick up the Turkish apricots when I go.

The “Super Heeb” sandwich: featuring a combo of whitefish and baked salmon salad and a horseradish cream cheese schmear on a bagel topped off with a spoonful of wasabi-infused flying fish roe.

Troy: This certainly made generations of bagel purists roll in their graves, but the kick of the wasabi and the saltiness of the roe added a memorable spark to an already tasty combination.

Kayoko: I had read about his sandwich a year ago in Time Out NY and have been dying to try it since. The combination of wasabi, fish and bagel was a bit bizarre, but ultimately the crunch from the roe added the right bit of zap.

Todd: I thought the sandwich was good, but even though I like wasabi, the whole thing seemed a little bit overdone and too complicated to me.

Troy: I’m salivating right now as I reminisce about this kickass sandwich. OMG. I want that sandwich right now.

Kayoko: Me too. And I love the wrapping it comes in!

Will be back tomorrow for the Grand Fucking Finale: Katz’s Deli. Of course. Check out all previous Umamiventures here. Thanks to my trusty iPhone for all the pictures. Make sure to join the UM Facebook group to stay updated on all future Umamiventures.

It’s actually insane how much food I made for two tiny people – I did not skimp on anything. I even had to leave work 4 hours early so I could have the brisket cook in time. As you may have guessed, I had to start with the brisket first considering it takes 3.5 hours to cook. Brisket, by the way, is a cut of beef from the underside of the cow — it is pretty much a pot roast cut or I guess in Texas they like to BBQ it.

So, to start I had gefilte fish and matzah. Being that I’ve been through a few Jewish holidays with my boyfriend already, I had already been introduced to these two items. The matzah is the unleavened bread (pretty much a cracker), which is a huge part of the Passover tradition, and the gefilte fish is a jarred fish that both smells and tastes like cat food. It’s true, but it’s not that bad.

I also made latkes — oh so good. These are fried potatoe pancakes that are served hot with apple sauce and sourcream. They made my house reaked of fried foods for a week, but it was worth it.

After we enjoyed a warm bowl of matzo ball soup. This is pretty much a chicken broth soup with veggies, egg noodles and matzo balls, which are pretty much boiled bread balls (kind of). The matzo balls were actually not as tough to make as I thought they would be, and they were much better than the huge ones that we get from the Jewish deli we go to. I guess I just prefer the smaller balls! This dish was by far my fave.

And last, but definitely not the least effort, the brisket and garlic spinach. I actually got my brisket recipe from the Barefoot Contessa – love that weird lady. It pretty much consisted of hecka onions, garlic, carrots, celery and a whole lot of tomato juice. If I were to change anything about my next brisket recipe, I’d definitely add a whole lot of seasoning to the tomato juice! It didn’t turn out bad – the meat tasted just like a pot roast – but the tomato juice flavoring was too simple for my liking. David loved it and I actually loved it the day after. I think after the meat had a chance to sit in its juices over night it tasted wonderful over a bed of rice.

One other item that we had with our Seder was very untraditional and against the whole purpose of passover was Challah. Oh boy do I love me some challah bread and butta. It really put the cherry on my Seder sundae. In fact, I love it so much, I am about to have some challah french toast. Not so sure how that one is going to turn out, but I’ll be sure to let you know.