Sometimes I hear or read about something while going about my every day business and it inspires me to hit my liquor cabinet and create something. Sometimes it’s the other way around, where I’m playing around with different spirits and ingredients and I come across a combination I really enjoy. In the case of the former, the final product practically names itself. In the case of the latter, christening the drink with a name often requires a creative process all its own.

Today’s drink, the Rikuo Cocktail, is an example of the latter process. It’s one I created several weeks ago, but couldn’t write about it until this week because until just a few days ago it was nameless. My research on the internet tells me “rikuo” is Japanese for “road king”. Consultation with a more reliable source on Japanese lexicon (our editor’s father, who is Japanese; and verified with Yoko) has indicated Rikuo translates to “land king.” But before I explain why I call it that (hint: it’s got nothing do do with this guy who also shares the name), let’s deal with the most important part, the recipe.

Rikuo Cocktail
1 1/2 oz VSOP Cognac
1/2 orgeat (used Trader Tiki brand)
1/2 oz fresh lemon juice
1/4 oz Campari
1 barspoon (approx tsp) A.B. Smeby Spiced Cranberry Bitters
lemon twist for garnish

Tools: shaker, strainer
Glass: chilled coupe or cocktail glass

Shake well with plenty of ice and strain into your glass. Cut a swath of lemon peel and twist it over the drink to release its oils, then garnish the drink with it.

As is often the case, I came up with this drink one night as I was playing around with ingredients that I chose almost randomly. I say almost because other than choosing a base spirit, a sweetener, and a citrus for acidic balance, there really was no rhyme or reason as to why I initially chose to play around with those precise ingredients, other than plain curiosity as to how they’d play together, and whether they even belonged in the same playground (there are some ingredient combinations that no matter how much one tinkers with the proportions, they just don’t play well together).

In this case it was instantly clear that with a bit of tweaking, the basic flavor profile could potentially lead to a really good cocktail. So after several attempts I decided the proportions above created the most balanced drink, and moved on to figure out what to call it.

So where does the name come from? Well, my mind continued to draw a blank for weeks. Then a few days ago as I was listening to the Nas song “No Idea’s Original,” a thought popped in my head: what if someone already made a drink like this? Although I was sure there wasn’t a drink exactly like this, at least nothing that I’ve come across, it did lead me to start thinking in terms of cocktail genealogy. Parsing out the DNA of the drink I’d made, I instantly saw shared traits between my drink and the classic Sidecar, which has Cognac and lemon juice. Then I remembered reading about an old Jerry Thomas creation with Cognac, orgeat, and bitters called the Japanese Cocktail, which many believe he named in honor of the first Japanese mission to America. It then dawned upon me that despite not intentionally trying to do so, I’d made a cocktail that was in many ways like an offspring of the two classics.

So there I had it, a Japanese Sidecar! Well, not so fast. I thought that name was too gimmicky, and what’s more, an insincere representation of the drink and the creative process behind it. It may be true that no idea is truly original, but it was also true that I wasn’t inspired by the Sidecar and the Japanese Cocktail when making this–at least not on a conscious level–so I wasn’t going to call it a Japanese Sidecar. Per se.

The name Japanese Sidecar did however remind me of something I read a few years ago about the first motorcycles manufactured in Japan in the 1930s, and how they were basically Harley-Davidsons, but were later produced under the name Rikuo once World War II threw a wrench in the whole US-Japan relations thing. A quick internet search revealed the Japanese bike, a bad ass one in particular, a gun metal black military sidecar model from 1943, and I knew I had found what I was looking for.

I admit the name Rikuo doesn’t roll off the tongue as well as Land King or King of the Land might, at least not for those of us who don’t speak Japanese. Despite that, I thought Rikuo as a name was a fitting tribute to both the Japanese Cocktail and the Sidecar, perhaps more so than Land King. Besides, the Japanese name seems more likely to spark a conversation between the drink’s maker and its imbiber, which is really the whole point of naming these creations in the first place, isn’t it?

Cheers!

*Got a cocktail question? Hit me on twitter @paystyle, email me at payman(at)lifesacocktail(dot)com, or simply drop me a comment below.

Looking for an angle when writing about a cocktail is for me the most time consuming–and sometimes agonozing–aspect of blogging.  Well, today I’m dispensing with the longwinded introductions about the reasons for talking about a particular cocktail, and instead featuring a cocktail for no reasons other than it’s deliciousness, and the fact that it’s a drink I’m mixing for myself on a fairly regular basis.  It’s my cocktail of the moment, and there’s a decent chance it’ll become yours too.

The cocktail is called the Coronation, and it is one of several cocktails bearing the same name, each with a completely different set of ingredients.  The recipe below is probably the first of the Coronations created, and also one of the best.

The Coronation
1 oz. applejack
1 oz. sweet vermouth (I used Vya)
1 oz. dry vermouth (Dolin works nicely)
1 dash (oh what the hell, a splash) apricot liqueur (I used Rothman & Winter)

Tools: barspoon, mixing glass, strainer
Glass: chilled cocktail glass or coupe

Place everything in mixing glass with cracked ice and stir until well mixed and chilled; strain into your glass.  A garnish isn’t necessary in this drink, but I chose to garnish with a calvados-soaked pomme (mini apple).

I treat the apricot liqueur in this drink as a variable that can and should be adjusted to your preference, while treating the remaining items as well-balanced constants. So while I use a healthy dash, feel free to use the amount that suits your palate.

This iteration of the Coronation makes its first print appearance in a 1931 cocktail recipe book called Old Waldorf Bar Days by Albert Crockett. The book was a recipe-filled chronicle of the history of the original Waldorf Astoria built in 1893, when it was located where the Empire State Building now stands.  Despite the book’s publication date, all the cocktails found within were created and served at the old hotel’s bar prior to Prohibition.  The Coronation recipe above was created to commemorate the 1902 crowning of King Edward VII, which likely gives it seniority over the numerous other cocktails with the same moniker, the recipes for which can be found here, here, here, here, and here. 

As you can see from all the recipes, there was lots of competition for the crown–I guess royalty was all the rage back then–but the recipe above is the true king.

Here’s to drinking like one.

*Got a cocktail question? Hit me on twitter @paystyle, email me at payman(at)lifesacocktail(dot)com, or simply drop me a comment below.

Photos by Mike Brandeberry and Kayoko Akabori.

‘Tis true: there lives a kickass distillery named St. George Spirits, just east of San Francisco, right across the Bay Bridge, in a little town that bleeds into Oakland, called Alameda, in California.

A group of us went a few weeks ago and experienced it in all its glory– we learned about St. George whiskeys, eau de vies (fruit brandy), absinthe and their line of Hangar One vodkas. What an amazing afternoon! By far the most educational Umamiventure yet.

St. George started in Emeryville in the 80s before moving to Alameda. They occupied a spot on the reputable Rosenblum Cellars Winery estate down the street and then eventually moved into their current home, which is an old Naval Air Base. That in itself was reason to visit– the space is so industrial and sexy, with clear views of the city right across the water. Bay Area Holler!

YOKO
Going to St. George Spirits for my first Umamiventure in the U.S. was like having a morning cup of coffee on a clear sunny day. It was a perfect beginning for many Umamiventures to come.

Getting to the distillery was a bit of a challenge, but luckily I didn’t give up. Truthfully, I have never been a real vodka fan so when I got slightly lost on the way to St. George, I asked myself ,”Is this really worth it?” But as soon as I saw the faces of fellow Umami-ers, I felt a huge sigh of comfort.

KAYOKO
Yoko, thank god you made it. You would’ve been so sad for missing it!

KAYOKO
I made a reservation for ten of us for the tasting, which started at noon. The woman I spoke with on the phone, Andy, was so hilarious and accommodating that I knew we were guaranteed a great time. You need to call in advance for large groups, so make sure to do that.

JAMES
The tasting room was lively, but also relaxed.

KAYOKO
A flight of 12 tastings is only $10. TWELVE! That is more than generous. If you want to try the absinthe, it’s $15. Definitely do the absinthe.

We tried two fruit brandies (aka eau de vie); five vodkas (St. George distills vodka under the name Hangar One); one whiskey; two tea liqueurs (under the name Qi); and two more fruit liqueurs. They use organic fruits for all their infusions, which they seep into the alcohol for anywhere between a few weeks, to months, depending on what is being distilled.

The tasting room is set up with bars across both sides of the room. We got our very own bartendress, Sasha, who was so informative and took us through each tasting, explaining the distillation process and answering all our random questions (like, what the hell is an eau de vie???). So special.

IDO
Our booze-vixen Sasha was delightful, pouring perfect pours (and splashing liquor and water all over the place!).

My favorites of the tastings? Straight vodka. Buddha’s Hand Citron infused, and maybe the Pear eau de vie.

YOKO
The eau de vies and vodkas were a treat, but I am not sure if I would get hooked. Some were a bit too sweet for my taste (i.e. the Mandarin Blossom). But our bartender, Sasha, was great and she explained to us what a Buddha’s Hand was, in addition to the amount of fruit it took to make one bottle of Fruit-Infused vodka. Although I wasn’t crazy about the vodka, they earn mucho points for their passion in the production and serving process.

ENRIC
The eau de vies were very pop and likeable– almost like a mosto in terms of thickness and sweetness but with a subtle alcohol punch that I can imagine can work quite well on a hangover day.

KAYOKO
The Buddha’s Hand-infused vodka was so tart and sharp. The fruit is basically all rind, so it cuts right into your mouth, but not in any over-powering way. It was subtly sweet, with a unique citrus distinction.

ENRIC
I personally liked more the vodkas with citrus rather than the berry-based (except the kaffir lime vodka which was too in your face).

KAYOKO
Agreed, Enric– the lime one was just too potent. I actually use it at the bar at my work, and it really overwhelms all other flavors in anything you add to it.

Like Ido, among my favorites was the straight vodka. It was so dangerously sippable! I know Paystyle calls vodka the illegitimate, bi-racial stepchild of the liquor world, but I could definitely get used to drinking this straight, or on the rocks.

JAMES
I enjoyed the range of vodka that was offered, the infusions were remarkable. I wish maybe they had something to eat to cleanse the palette between tastings though.

LIZ
First of all I would like to give vodka two thumbs up. Oh, vodka you are always so good to me and hardly ever leave me with a hangover! I especially liked tasting the fruit brandies and infused vodkas here. They were really good.

YOKO
My favorite drink was their single malt whiskey. I never thought I was a whiskey fan, but this blew me away. The smell of the casks released themselves in my nasal and throat passages — it was unlike any whiskey I have had. Maybe it was the freshness? Maybe it was because they distill them in such small batches? I am certainly not a whiskey-aholic, so although I don’t know much about it, I just knew this was rocking my taste buds. Apparently, the oak casks lend an aroma of vanilla and cocoa to the whiskey, respectively.

YOKO
By this point, my Asian face was turning similar in color to the Fraser River Raspberry eau de vie we had a few tastings ago. But never mind, I was going to finish my whiskey, dammit! The golden, deep, swirly liquid was definitely something I was getting lost in, as I was staring into the last drops of my serving, wondering “how much is this stuff?” I soon knew the answer as I wandered into the check-in area where they had a 750ml bottle of it selling for $60. Steep (but understandable).

KAYOKO
I too, was super bummed when I saw the pricetag for this whiskey. I will need to save my pennies so I can get myself a bottle soon.

ENRIC
Loved the black tea liqueur: had way more attitude than the meh-too-subtle white tea liqueur.

IDO
It was nice that, unlike wine tastings that are all about subtlety, these were punchy, in-your-face-flavors. You either like ‘em or you don’t.

KAYOKO
ABSINTHE!

KAYOKO
St. George was the first distillery in the U.S. to start making absinthe when it was first re-legalized. It tasted of potent herbs and the drinkability really delighted me. It numbed my mouth! Sasha suggested that we wait for the ice to melt a little, so the absinthe can expand and grow. Watch how the liquid goes from clear to foggy, and the particles moving, dissolving, and evolving. It’s chemistry in action!

IDO
I might have included the absinthe in “likes,” but I didn’t get to enjoy the whole glass (driver).

KAYOKO
The tasting lasted an hour, with the tour promptly following at 1pm. Suddenly, about 50 people flooded in, and we spent the next hour being ridiculously entertained and schooled by our guide Andy. She was by far the best part of the entire afternoon– wicked smart, witty, hilarious. And HOT! Loved this girl.

ENRIC
Loved the vodka-vixen attitude. Very tongue-in-cheek and such a refreshing change from boring wine tours. Racier comments, more tight black pants, more non-PC drunkard culture, more WTF.

KAYOKO
Andy with the distillery guardian, the shark from the movie Deep Blue Sea. Oy.

Where all the distillation happens. Intensification columns and its short and stubby Oompah Loompah counterpart.

Whiskey, bourbon, ports. Aging is a beautiful thing.

Bottling machine.

LIZ
This place rocks. It was way out in Alameda but it was really cool to see where everything is made. The distillery is actually a LOT smaller than I expected it to be. They seem to run a pretty tight ship though.

IDO
A rockin’ Umamiventure it was. How the hell’d they end up with a hangar on the water? I want one too!

KAYOKO
Thanks everyone for coming out! What a fantastic event, worth going again and again for the tasting and tour. I highly recommend to everyone to try to do their tasting BEFORE the tour. I was adverse to the idea at first, but the tasting room was WAY more mellow than the state it was in when we were leaving the tour.

Special thanks to Andy and Sasha from St. George– you made the day so special!

ST. GEORGE SPIRITS
2601 Monarch Street
Alameda, CA
Main: 510.769.1601
Tasting Room: 510.864.0635
Tasting Room open Wednesday-Saturday, noon-7pm, Sunday noon-6pm
Distillery tours every Saturday and Sunday at 1pm

*Umamiventures are organized monthly, traveling far and wide to find good, cheap grub off the beaten path. Umamiventure #23 will be at Sammy’s in NYC on Sat. 2/20. Please come out!

**Become a Facebook Fan of UM to stay updated on all future trips!

Past Umamiventures include:
1.) Ocean Jewel Restaurant – Flushing, NYC; June 2007
2.) Red Hook Ball Fields - NYC; June 2007
3.) Taste of Jackson Heights – NYC; October, 2007
4.) Sripraphai Restaurant – Woodside, NYC; November 2007
5.) WINTERMARKET – South St. Seaport; December 2007
6.) Jackson Diner- Jackson Heights, NYC; January 2008
7.) Pacificana – Sunset Park, NYC; February 2008
8.) Puerto Alegre – The Mission, SF; March 2008
9.) Dinosaur BBQ – Harlem, NYC; April 2008
10.) Bohemian Hall and Beer Garden – Astoria, NYC; May 2008
11.) Brooklyn Banh Mi Crawl – Sunset Park, NYC; August 2008
12.) Sheapshead Bay Lobster Crawl – NYC; September 2008
13.) Flushing Food Circuit – NYC; October 2008
14.) Strong Beer Month – SF; March 2009
15.) Loisaida Throwback Crawl – NYC; April 2009
16.) Harley Farms Goat Dairy – Pescadero, CA; June 2009
17.) Tomales Bay Oyster Farm – Marshall, CA; August 2009
18.) Din Tai Fung – LA; September 2009
19.) Din Tai Fung – Tokyo; September 2009
20.) Schroeder’s Oktoberfest – SF; October 2009
21.) Fish Taco Crawl – San Diego; November 2009

Christmas is nearly upon us, and while most folks are building jolly snowmen and merrily singing carols, every year there are those who wake on Christmas morning to the sad realization that they had been placed on the naughty list, with only a few lumps of coal in their stockings as their best hope of a gift.

And who’s in charge of making the big decisions as to who’s been naughty or nice? Well old St. Nick of course, but what I don’t understand is who put this guy in charge in the first place?

Seriously though, what’s this Santa fella’s problem anyway? I mean, who does he think he is with this naughty or nice business? He sounds like a pretty judgmental guy if you ask me. The funny thing is he ought to be the last guy to judge others, since it’s highly doubtful that he’s ever passed up on putting cheese on his double reindeer burger, you know what I mean? And the guy can build every toy imaginable, and always up to date with technology, but can’t build himself a treadmill?

Of course if you’ve been a goodie-two-shoes all year you’re not worried. Shoot, you’re probably enthralled with the guy, and if he were on twitter you’d probably be the first to follow him. But for the rest of us, if you’re tired of finding lumps of coal in your stockings (how cruel is that?), and if you suspect this year will only be more of the same, then listen up because I got your lump of revenge right here. It’s called Hot Milk Punch, and it’s the perfect way to lure in the fat boy–via his favorite midnight snack.

We all know the fat bastard has a weakness for milk and cookies, so that’s exactly what we’re going to use to lure him in. But instead of the traditional energizing and focus-inducing glass of cold milk and cookies, we’ll offer him up some cookies along with Hot Milk Punch, aka liquid sleeping pills. Nothing like warm milk and booze to keep him alert and wide awake for the remainder of his trip.*

Hot Milk Punch
3/4 oz dark rum
3/4 oz brandy
1 tsp caster sugar (superfine sugar)
hot milk to fill
nutmeg to top

Glass: any tea/coffee mug

Heat milk in a pot. Meanwhile mix rum, brandy, and sugar in your mug until it dissolves. Pour in the hot milk and sprinkle with nutmeg on top. You can adjust the alcohol down (or up) to your liking (or level of sinisterness).

I think this year Santa should get the message loud and clear that naughty or nice, we all need a little love this time of year.

Let’s see how Rudolf saves the day with a plastered Santa at the helm, mwaaawhahahahahaa!

*This post is written with tongue firmly planted in cheek. Neither Happy Hour nor Umamimart endorse driving drunk, be it a car or a sleigh, unless you really have to get home pretty bad. We also do not endorse violence against Santa, be it the real Santa or the near-homeless alcoholic guy they hire at the local department store every year. If you’ve been offended in any way by this post then you need to get a massage, smoke a spliff, or do something that relaxes you, as you’re obviously wound too tight–perhaps try some Hot Milk Punch!

Got a cocktail question? Hit me on twitter @paystyle, email me at payman(at)lifesacocktail(dot)com, or simply drop me a comment below!

Paystyle was born in Tehran and grew up in Los Angeles (aka Tehrangeles) before moving to Brooklyn with his wife and co-pilot Vanessa Bahmani who provides the stunning photography of Pay’s concoctions. Return every Wednesday for his weekly Happy Hour column.