This is my new favorite winter cocktail to drink in our neck of the woods, so I named it after our neighborhood, Skylonda. I just soak some cinnamon sticks in a jar of bourbon for a few days which gives it a nice spice. Then to the bourbon, I add a few drops of bitters and a splash of dry vermouth in one of Umamimart Shop’s lovely Yarai cocktail mixing glasses.

Let’s face it, mid-winter is almost upon us and there is not a ground hog is sight. It is getting downright tundra cold out there and Mother Nature is sure to unleash a deep freeze. Some say one should think of a warm place like a tropical island when winter’s freeze is cutting through your bones. Others hope a St. Bernard will come dashing around the bend with a neck barrel full of warming brandy. Well I like to imagine a warm place that combines the heat and brandy; I mentally revisit my annual mid-summer pilgrimage to sizzling hot New Orleans for Tales of the Cocktail where I order a Vieux Carré cocktail upon arrival at the Carousel Bar.

Le Vieux Carré (pronounced view-kar-ray) is the French term for “Old Square” and is another name for the Crescent City’s iconic French Quarter. Walter Bergeron, the head bartender at the Hotel Monteleone’s bar, created the drink in 1938 as homage to New Orleans’ most celebrated district. The Monteleone’s hotel bar would later become the Carousel Bar with its famous rotating bar. The Monteleone, one of the French Quarter’s grand hotels, is also fittingly Tales of the Cocktail central and the Vieux Carré is still served as the house cocktail.

The Vieux Carré cocktail is a perfect example of a well-balanced mix of diverse spirits and bitters. French cognac, American rye whisky, and Italian sweet vermouth share the stage as base spirits. The monastically produced Bénédictine liqueur brings sweetness to the drink to offset the boozy trifecta. The bitters round out the mixture by cutting the sweetness and bonding the spirits.

Classic Vieux Carré
¾ oz cognac
¾ oz rye whisky
¾ oz sweet vermouth
¼ oz Bénédictine
Dash of Peychaud’s bitters
Dash of Angostura bitters
Lemon peel

Tools: Mixing glass, bar spoon, Hawthorne strainer, jigger, Swiss peeler

Method: Combine bitters and liquors in a mixing glass, add ice and stir until well chilled. Strain into a double rocks glass over ice and garnish with a lemon peel.

Still not warm enough for you? Take the recipe above and head south of the Tropic of Cancer to Guyana, the land of many waters and home of Demerara rum. In a recent night on the town, I was lucky enough to encounter a marvelous rum version of the Vieux Carré while dining at New York’s legendary Monkey Bar. The origins of the rum variation are hazy like that night but one of my fellow diners did order one at Julie Reiner’s Flatiron Lounge and was so thrilled with the libation that he began to spread the gospel. I was sold after one sip. The Rum Vieux Carré I ordered at Monkey Bar was made with El Dorado 12 Year Old Demerara rum in lieu of cognac. All of the other ingredients: spirits, bitters, and proportions remained true to Bergeron’s original, however it was served up and not on the rocks which makes for an elegant presentation.

El Dorado translates to City of Gold in Spanish and this liquid gold is an underrated treasure. El Dorado 12 Year Old Rum is produced by Demerara Distillers and is composed of rum from nine different stills ranging from copper still, wooden Coffey, and double wooden pots. Once thoroughly blended, the rum is aged in old bourbon oak casks. The end product is the lovely amber colored aged rum with the flavor of honey, toffee, fruit, and spice taking center stage with dry and smooth finish.

I used Sazarac 6 Year-old Straight Rye Whisky (90 proof) and a subdued sweet vermouth like Dolin Rouge to keep the focus on the El Dorado. A bold vermouth such as Carpano Antica or Cocchi Vermouth di Torino may overwhelm the other base spirits. Sazarac’s peppery taste compliment El Dorado’s complex flavors and add extra punch to the drink. The lemon twist at the end adds the right amount of citrus oils and brings out some of the El Dorado’s fruit.

Rum Vieux Carré
¾ oz El Dorado 12 Year Old Rum
¾ oz Sazarac 6 Year Old Straight Rye whisky
¾ oz Dolin Rouge sweet vermouth
¼ oz Bénédictine liqueur
Dash of Peychaud’s bitters
Dash of Angostura bitters
Lemon peel

Tools: Mixing glass, bar spoon, julep strainer, jigger, Swiss peeler, Manhattan glass

Method: Combine bitters and liquors in a mixing glass, add ice and stir until well chilled. Strain the mixture into a frosted Manhattan glass and garnish with a lemon peel.

So when you are stuck out in the freezing cold this winter try to imagine that St. Bernard bringing you a barrel-aged Rum Vieux Carré and then get to a reputable cocktail bar and order one! Keep warm mes amis.

*Photo by Vanessa Bahmani. 

**Got a cocktail question? Reach Fredo on twitter @loungerati, email me at fredo(at)loungerati(dot)com, or simply drop me a comment below!

***Fredo Ceraso is the editor-at-large of the lounge lifestyle blog Loungerati.com. He is head cocktailian and a co-producer of The Salon parties. Fredo is a member of the USBG New York chapter and rolls drinks at many Lounge, Swing, Jazz Age, & Burlesque events in New York City.

PREFACE
Vermouth 101: The Old Hickory

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Well now that you have an appetite inducing “qualifying round” under the belt, time to move to the first course. When it comes to vermouth cocktails, the next logical step in expanding ones appreciation of what the spirit can do is to go back to the beginning. In the time line of modern cocktail history, there are only a few that showcase vermouth’s qualities and still deliver a high proof kick. Cocktails such as the Turf Club (equal parts sweet vermouth and gin with bitters) or the El Presidente (equal parts dry vermouth and white rum, with curacao, grenadine, and bitters) only give vermouth equal billing. Meet the cocktail that puts vermouth in the front of the room and happens to be the Grand Daddy of the modern Martini: The Martinez Cocktail.

The Martinez is a predecessor to the Martini that is allegedly attributed to Jerry “The Professor” Thomas as its creator. It is important to note that the drink does not appear in Thomas’ original 1862 printing of How to Mix Drinks or the Bon Vivant’s Companion but then it appears in the 1887 edition, which has led to speculation as to its true origins. It is not clear who “Martinez” was or whether he existed at all. Like any good bar tale or creation myth, there are plenty of theories of who invented the libation. One thing we do know, the Martinez fell off the radar of bartenders once dry vermouth became plentiful around turn of the century and the dry Martini became king.

Since the fin-de-siecle, the Martinez cocktail has been relegated to the history books but is making a legitimate comeback thanks to the recent cocktail revival. This dark period is understandable, since the caliber of vermouths available in the last few decades has not been conducive to making the Martinez palatable. As I mentioned in the previous posting on the Vermouth Cocktail , the quality of the vermouth is critical when mixing a cocktail where vermouth plays the base spirit.

THE DRINK
The Martinez’s construction is rather simple with only four ingredients: Italian vermouth, Old Tom gin, maraschino liqueur, and aromatic bitters–stirred, and served up a citrus peel. In an attempt to get the historical taste profile spot on, I recommend using the following spirits when mixing the drink:

First, use a sweet or “Italian” vermouth that follows the original vermouth formulas of the nineteenth century. Brands such as Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth or the newly released Vermouth di Torino by Cocchi not only bring a robust flavor profile to the Martinez, they are similar in composition to the vermouths used by the likes of Jerry Thomas the sporting bartenders during the cocktail’s heyday. I actually prepared a Martinez using one of the mass produced brands in my research for this article–take it from me, there is no comparison to the Carpano or Cocchi products.

Second, use artisan Old Tom gin such as a version produced by Ransom distillers of Sheridan, Oregon. Ransom Old Tom gin is a historically accurate replica of mid-1800s recipes developed with the guidance of cocktail historian David Wondrich. It is produced in small batches, alembic pot distilled, 88 proof (44% alcohol by volume), and has a distinct malt flavor that blends well with vermouths. Old Tom is a variety of gin that is a sweetened that predates the now ubiquitous London Dry gin.

THE MODIFIERS
Maraschino liqueur: Luxardo is a premium brand maraschino liqueur made from marasca cherries of the Dalmatian coast in Croatia. The liqueur which has an ancient pedigree has origins in the Dominican monastaries of the region. The award-winning Luxardo recipe dates from 1821 and is produced in Torregue, outside Padova in Italy.

Bitters: Try to get your hands on Dr. Adam Elmigirab’s Boker’s Bitters, a revival of the original Boker’s company recipe dating from 1853 is the authentic choice. If Boker’s is out of reach, I suggest the Bitter Truth’s Jerry Thomas’ Own Decanted Bitters or Angostura aromatic bitters.

THE MARTINEZ

2 oz Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth
1 oz Ransom Old Tom Gin
1 Tsp of Luxardo maraschino
Dash of Bitter Truth Jerry Thomas’ Own Decanted bitters
Lemon peel

Tools: bar glass, bar spoon, Swiss peeler, strainer, and coupe glass

Method: Combine ingredients in mixing glass, add cracked ice, stir rigorously until proper dilution achieved, and strain into chilled cocktail glass, then release the citrus oils from an lemon peel and discard.

Insider’s Tip: Substitute a thicker bodied gin of the Holland Gin variety such as Bols Genever Barrel Aged for a unique update on this classic. Typically, Holland gin does not mix well with sweet vermouth, however, the Barrel Aged Genever picks up many notes which exist in whiskey, and thus make for a better partnership.

*Photograph by Vanessa Bahmani

**Got a cocktail question? Reach Fredo on twitter @loungerati, email me at fredo(at)loungerati(dot)com, or simply drop me a comment below!

***Fredo Ceraso is the editor-at-large of the lounge lifestyle blog Loungerati.com. He is head cocktailian and a co-producer of The Salon parties. Fredo is a member of the USBG New York chapter and rolls drinks at many Lounge, Swing, Jazz Age, & Burlesque events in New York City.

A lounger pal of mine recently coined the term “qualifying round” to rationalize why going out for just one cocktail never happens. Who could just order one drink and leave their favorite cocktail bar? It is akin to ducking out mid conversation! To address this issue, his policy is to order one drink to set the stage and then order a second to truly experience the drink. In other words, he has a two-drink minimum. I offer an addendum to the “qualifying round” – a lower alcohol palette primer that should work whether you are out for just “one drink” or starting an evening long cocktail crawl.

May I introduce you to the quintessential qualifying round: The Vermouth Cocktail.

I know what you are thinking, vermouth? You mean that dusty bottle sitting on my shelf that I occasionally break out for Martinis? First of all, if that vermouth bottle has been sitting in your liquor cabinets for over a month just dump it. The reason most people dislike vermouth is because the product has spoiled sitting on that shelf. Vermouth is a fortified wine and as we know wine has a short shelf-life. So please purchase a fresh bottle and refrigerate after opening. It should last you a month or so.

Most of us think of vermouth as a modifying spirit, a compliment for iconic heavyweights like the Martini, Manhattan, Negroni, and other classics. The reason I advocate using this spirit as your aperitif, or qualifying round is because it warms up the palette in anticipation of stronger alcohol and food. The French and Italian have a great culinary tradition that begins with an appetite inducer, the same should apply when drinking cocktails.

WHAT IS VERMOUTH?
Vermouth is a fortified wine whose base is infused with spirits and herbs. Typical ingredients include quinine, bark, cloves, citrus peel, and herbs such as chamomile, juniper, cinnamon, and cardamom. Sweet vermouths have more alcohol with 10-15% sugar content, while dry vermouth is lighter with fewer than 10%. Most vermouths, even the sweet (which has a red color), begin life as a white wine. The spirits used in the infusion are generally neutral grain but fruit brandies are also employed in some brands.

THE MAIN PLAYERS
Carpano Antica Formula is the granddaddy of modern vermouth, tracing its roots to the home of modern vermouth Turin, Italy. In 1786, Antonio Carpano, the creator of commercial vermouth, developed a fortified wine by infusing over 30 types of plants and herbs (including wormwood) and then sweetened it with grain spirit. According to drinks historians, Teutonic aromatic wines and Goethe poetry influenced Carpano during the marketing of his new product, naming is vermouth after the German word for wormwood, wermut.

Today, Branca Distilleries, famous for Fernet Branca amaro produces Carpano Antica based upon the original 1786 recipe. Carpano deploys complex flavors with notes of vanilla, cinnamon, and bitter herbs that stands up to the strongest of whiskeys, tequilas, and amari. It is especially prized amongst cocktail bartenders who revel in its depth of robust flavors but can be overwhelming in certain cocktails. However, when added to the Vermouth Cocktail recipe, Carpano steals the show.

Another outstanding vermouth for use in the Vermouth Cocktail is Dolin Blanc. Maison Dolin et Cie produces a premium brand of vermouths from the alpine Chambéry region of southeast France. Vermouth de Chambéry has also received the appellation d’origine controlée (a.o.c) certification due to the unique characteristics of the soil of the area. Though Dolin is famous for its rouge, dry, and even strawberry vermouths, their vermouth Blanc is by far my favorite. Blanc is produced like an un-aged sweet vermouth that is infused with 54 plants and herbs that includes rose petals but none of the ingredients that create the red color. It is a more thoughtful variation of the mass produced bianco vermouth but with the unique aromatic vegetation of Chambéry.

In addition to Carpano Antica and Dolin Blanc, some excellent vermouths that can be used in a Vermouth Cocktail are Punt a Mes (also made by Carpano), and the newest entries into the field from California: Vya (made from orange Muscat wine) and Sutton Cellars.

THE DRINK
A typical Vermouth Cocktail is very simple, comprising of equal parts of two types of vermouth plus a dash of orange bitters with a lemon or orange twist. The key is to get the right vermouths in the mix. Enter a superb update of the traditional recipe called The Old Hickory, which uses both Carpano and Dolin Blanc. The Old Hickory, which appears in Stanley Clisby Arthur’s Famous New Orleans Drinks and How to Mix ‘Em (1937) has been adapted by bar man Maxwell Britten for the inaugural menu at Brooklyn cocktail den, Maison Premiere. The drink is a modified  Vermouth Cocktail with a New Orleans twist due to the addition of Peychaud’s bitters.

“Old Hickory” was the the nickname of Andrew Jackson, the 7th President of the United States, due to his somewhat bitter and prickly demeanor. Jackson rose to national prominence during the War of 1812, becoming a bonafide war hero when his forces, despite being out numbered and outgunned, repelled a superior British army in the Battle of New Orleans. Like its’ namesake, the Old Hickory cocktail could be a nineteenth century original. Britten updates the specs by using artisinal vermouths that are true to their original recipes and does not skimp on the Peychauds. The result is battle between bitter and sweet that brings forth waves of complex earthy flavors with hints of chocolate that entice the palette. The orange twist whose oils are extracted above the cocktail during preparation delivers an air bust of citrus. Simply put, The Old Hickory is a vermouth lover’s dream and stellar example of the potential of the Vermouth Cocktail.

The Old Hickory
Adapted by Maxwell Britten of Maison Premiere

1 ½ oz Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth
1 ½ oz Dolin Blanc or Dry (we prefer the Blanc)
2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters
2 dashes Orange Bitters

Tools: 10 oz Old Fashioned glass, Swiss peeler, bar spoon

Method: Combine bitters and vermouth in an Old Fashioned glass, add 3-4 Kold Draft or equivalent 1” square ice cubes, and stir with bar spoon for 15 seconds. Extract oils orange twist above drink and garnish.

Insider’s Tip: Maison Premiere orange bitters house mix is equal parts Regan’s No. 5 and Fee Brothers West Indian orange bitters.

*Got a cocktail question? Reach Fredo on twitter @loungerati, email me at fredo(at)loungerati(dot)com, or simply drop me a comment below!

**Fredo Ceraso is the editor-at-large of the lounge lifestyle blog Loungerati.com. He is head cocktailian and a co-producer of The Salon parties. Fredo is a member of the USBG New York chapter and rolls drinks at many Lounge, Swing, Jazz Age, & Burlesque events in New York City.

Being out of the country for nearly a month has a tendency to adjust a person’s perspective of “home.” Home has had various meanings and geographical locations in various moments in my life. Conceptually, it means numerous–and sometimes conflicting–things at one time, and all this really came to light on my recent trip to Iran. Depending on how the question is asked, for me home can either mean Iran (where I was born), Los Angeles (where I grew up), or New York City (where I now live).

In the final days of my trip, it was the lattermost of the three homes that was most on my mind. I once heard someone refer to NYC as the great Roman Carnival, a place where the spectacle is ordinary, and even if the spectacle is unsightly, it’s one you can’t walk away from. The rat on the subway track may as well be the city’s mascot, because it so neatly encapsulates the love-hate relationship many residents feel toward this city: that even those disgusted by it are unable to turn their eyes from it. Those who live, or have ever lived, in this city for a significant amount of time might understand what I’m referring to.

On my flight home I felt as if all that I loved and hated about NYC was rolled up in one great tangled ball of string. Below is my attempt at untangling that ball.

Good Morning Heartache
1 1/2 oz Gin (Beefeater 24 is ideal because of its tea botanicals)
3/4 oz fresh tangerine juice (I used honey tangerines)
1/2 oz fresh lemon juice
1/2 oz lapsang-honey syrup (see recipe below)
1/2 oz egg white (organic farm fresh eggs)
6 dashes Bar Keep Baked Apple Bitters

Garnish: small pinch lapsang souchong tea leaves, heated 20 seconds in microwave
Tools: shaker, strainer
Glass: chilled coupe or cocktail glass

Add the gin, egg white, and honey syrup to a cocktail shaker and dry shake (without ice) vigorously for 15 seconds to emulsify and froth the egg. Add the remaining ingredients along with lots of cracked ice and shake again until the drink is well mixed and chilled, about 10 seconds or so. Strain into your glass and garnish by adding atop the drink a pinch of dried lapsang souchong tea leaves that have been heated in the microwave for 20 seconds.

Lapsang-Honey Syrup
In a small pot bring one cup water to a boil. After water boils, turn off heat and add five teaspoons lapsang souchong tea leaves and allow the tea to steep for five minutes. Make sure tea leaves are submerged in the water and stir every minute or so to ensure teas give off maximum flavor. After five minutes strain out the tea leaves and discard. To the remaining tea add an equal amount of honey and stir to fully dissolve. You now have a smoky, sweet syrup that’s ready to use in the cocktail.

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Good Morning Heartache is my ode to all that is New York City–it’s good, bad, pretty, and ugly. Now judging by the way this cocktail looks and tastes, it’s clear I have more love than hate for this city. That’s because to me, even the ugly in this city is pretty, if not altogether more beautiful than the pretty itself. When I went about creating the recipe I wanted to represent that, and I tried to create something that engaged multiple senses.

This cocktail is inspired by couple of things that are unique to this city. First, it is an homage to old New York, the city we think of when we describe the great Harlem Renaissance and the Jazz Age. Those of you familiar with that era will instantly recognize that the name of the cocktail comes from a classic Billy Holiday song.

There are few people I can think of who better represent that era than Lady Day, as she lived and breathed the city in so much of her music. Although I’ve never heard the song Good Morning Heartache officially interpreted in this way, I’ve always thought it was an extended metaphor for New York City; that the lover she’s singing to in the morning, the one that she can’t stand to be apart from despite the grief he’s caused her, is the city itself. And in that sense the song was the perfect name for this drink.

I also wanted to invoke this theme by engaging the senses, and I did so via the various ingredients I used, such as the lapsang-honey syrup. Imagine if you will the sweet voice of Billie Holiday in a smoke-filled Harlem nightclub in the 1930s—that was a big inspiration for combining the smoky lapsang tea with the honey, and also why I use the heated dried tea leaves as a garnish atop the drink. Not only do you get a sweet smoky sensation on the palate, but also on the nose as the aroma wafts above the drink.

Secondly, this cocktail is inspired by a classic New York tradition, brunch. Sure other cities have brunch, but in New York brunch is a religion.  It is the city that turned the word brunch into a verb. The cocktail not only represents that in its name, but also in its ingredients. Tea, honey, tangerine juice, and egg, are all items you’d find at a traditional brunch table. This cocktail, as the sum of those parts, is also intended to be right at home on the brunch table.

Here’s to the beautiful decay that is home.

*Got a cocktail question? Hit me on twitter @paystyle, email me at payman(at)lifesacocktail(dot)com, or simply drop me a comment below.

There is nothing like an expertly crafted Old Fashioned-style cocktail to help you navigate the rapidly changing weather of late March. Since, it is not quite Gin Rickey weather and too warm for a Hot Toddy, a solid whiskey cocktail is just what the Doctor ordered. Now let’s take it to the next level in flavor, taste, and execution. Let me introduce you to the American Trilogy.

The American Trilogy is a cocktail created by barmen extraordinaire Richard Boccato and Michael McIlroy in 2007 at New York’s Little Branch. Trilogy channels the recipe for the old fashioned (spirit, sugar, bitters) and uses two base spirits instead of one. The clever combination unites two classic American liquors and a possible mystery ingredient that create a unique flavor that sets the cocktail apart from other old fashioned derivatives. E pluribus unum!

Let’s start at the beginning: why is this libation called American Trilogy? I recently corresponded with Richard Boccato regarding the nomenclature of the drink. My instincts were spot on about two of Trilogy’s pillars: The spirits, applejack brandy and rye whiskey are American oldest distilled spirits and true originals.

Laird’s Applejack (aka “Jersey Lightning”) is literally America’s oldest distilled spirit and proudly boasts License #1 which William Laird obtained in 1780. Applejack is a brandy distilled from apples and produced by Laird & Company in Scobeyville, New Jersey. The Bonded version of Applejack is 100 proof (50 alcohol) and bottled in “bond”. In other words, this stronger proof version of applejack, typically 80 proof, comes from one distilling season and is held in a US Government bonded warehouse for a set amount of years, then bottled at 100 proof. This designation is a mark of quality.

A solid Rye whiskey like Rittenhouse 100 stands up to the fortitude of the bonded Applejack. According to Heaven Hill distillery of Bardstown, Kentucky, Rittenhouse 100 is distilled in the tradition of the classic Pennsylvania rye whiskey. This style of rye was once as common as vodka in the American landscape. Rittenhouse is also bottle in bond (100 proof), which secures a smooth, buttery, robust and spicy flavor with a strong finish.

The third pillar of Trilogy is up for conjecture. Richard was kind enough to share his insights on the possible meaning.

“The third piece of the puzzle is somewhat of an elusive mystery at this point–even to me. One explanation could be that the third major ingredient in the cocktail (orange bitters) is of “American” origins? However, given the fact that our house orange bitters is a 1:1 blend of Fee Bros. and Regan’s–since the Fees were originally from Ireland (like [co-drink creator Michael “Micky” McIlroy]) and like Micky they made their bones in America, and Gaz Regan’s bitters were made in America (but he wasn’t)…then are the orange bitters really (are) a third “American” ingredient? … The drink appears to taste good enough with just two legitimate “American” ingredients, so maybe we should just leave it at that.”

So, it could be the orange bitters or a nod to America’s immigrant innovators or it could be that the Old Fashioned is the granddaddy of the American cocktails! No matter what theory, the point is that this cocktail is genuinely exquisite in taste and honors good ole’ American ingenuity! Besides who doesn’t love a little bit of mystery?!

American Trilogy
By R. Boccato & M. McIlroy

1 oz Rittenhouse 100 Bonded Rye
1 oz Laird’s Bonded Applejack Brandy
1-2 dashes of Fee Brothers orange bitters
1-2 dashes of Regan’s orange bitters
Brown sugar cube
Orange peel

Tools: bar spoon, jigger, pairing knife, whiskey glass

Build drink in a whiskey glass. Saturate the sugar cube with the bitters, and gently muddle in order to create a slightly granulated paste. Then add rye and applejack bandy and a large chunk of cracked ice. Then taking a bar spoon, carefully stir the mixer until well chilled. Cut a fresh orange peel and extract the oils over the drink, then garnish.

Insider’s note: In addition to being a favorite on the menu at Sasha Petraske’s bars, such as Dutch Kills Bar and Little Branch, the American Trilogy is also served at notable establishments such as NYC’s favorite Momokufu Ssam Bar.

*Got a cocktail question? Reach Fredo on twitter @loungerati, email me at fredo(at)loungerati(dot)com, or simply comment below!

**Fredo Ceraso is the editor-at-large of the lounge lifestyle blog Loungerati.com. He is head cocktailian and a co-producer of The Salon parties. Fredo is a member of the USBG New York chapter and rolls drinks at many Lounge, Swing, Jazz Age, & Burlesque events in New York City.

***Payman Bahmani will return in April for his weekly Happy Hour column and is honored to have Fredo tend the bar while away.

March, as the idiom goes, comes in like a Lion, and goes out like a Lamb. This month may bring us spring-like temperatures, but also one more blizzard for the road. Winter’s last blast requires a libation celebrating the flavors of the season and is worthy of the ferocity of the month’s namesake, Mars, the Roman God of War.

Meet the Lion’s Tail, the last winter cocktail you will order.

Some background: Eryn Reece, bartender at Mayahuel in New York introduced me to this delicious drink a few years ago when she worked at the Rye House. It was an off menu standard and nightcap. The cocktail actually dates back to the 1930s, first appearing in the Cafe Royal Cocktail Book (1937). The Lion’s Tail returned from the cocktail graveyard thanks to Ted “Dr. Cocktail” Haigh’s book Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails.

At its core, the Lion’s Tail is a variation of a whiskey sour with a wintry flavor profile and tropical influences. The components are bourbon, allspice or “pimento” dram, lime juice (instead of lemon), simple syrup, and good ole’ Angostura bitters. As Don Draper says, “Keep it simple yet significant.”

Allspice is the flavor that stands out in the Lion’s Tail. St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram is produced by Haus Alpenz of Austria and registers at 22.5% alcohol (45 proof). It is crafted in the tradition of pimento dram from the Caribbean. Pimento dram is a pimento berry infused rum based liqueur that hails from Jamaica. According to Cocktail Database, the English named the pimento berry flavor “allspice” because it tasted like a combination of cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove. Original pimento dram was popular in pre-prohibition tropical cocktails.

The use of bourbon in this recipe is important from a historical context. For one, 1937 is barely four years after Repeal so the supply of aged bourbon was not exactly plentiful. Only six distilleries had been licensed by the federal government to keep producing whiskey for medicinal purposes during the Dark Age, so bourbon cocktails were rare until the industry recovered in the 1950s. Hence, there is a preponderance of Canadian rye showing up in cocktails lasting well after prohibition. Secondly, bourbon is not typically paired with lime juice in shaken cocktails. However, allspice’s rum base is a natural with lime. Both of these facts make the cocktails’ existence to be quite unique.

I recommend using a bourbon that can stand up to the allspice dram and not get lost in the citrus. Eagle Rare 10 year Single Barrel (45% alcohol/90 Proof) displays robust oaky flavors with hints of chocolate, toffee, and almond works very well in this formula. Eagle Rare delivers the punch and balances the sour and spicy essence. Buffalo Trace Straight Bourbon (45% alcohol/90 Proof) is also stellar in this recipe. Both Eagle Rare and Buffalo Trace are produced at the Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, Kentucky.

Building the drink: Start with bitters, freshly squeezed lime juice, and simple syrup. Then add the liqueurs and ice, shake for 25-20 seconds, and double strain into a chilled coupe. The allspice taste is prominent, as a cocktail modifier should be used sparingly. So I dialed back the original spec of ¾ oz to ¼ oz allspice dram. The original recipe has no garnish though I have seen it served daiquiri style with a lime wedge. I find three Luxardo maraschino cherries to be an excellent addition in presentation and palate cleanser.

LION’S TAIL
2 oz Eagle Rare 10 Year Single Barrel Bourbon
¼ oz St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram
¾ oz Lime juice
½ oz Simple syrup
Dash of Angostura bitters

Tools: mixing tins, jigger, bar spoon, coupe, Hawthorne strainer, fine strainer

Combine bitters, dram, lime juice, and simple syrup in mixing tins. Add ice, and then shake until well chilled. Double strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with three Luxardo maraschino cherries.

*Got a cocktail question? Reach Fredo on twitter @loungerati, email me at fredo(at)loungerati(dot)com, or simply comment below!

**Fredo Ceraso is the editor-at-large of the lounge lifestyle blog Loungerati.com. He is head cocktailian and a co-producer of The Salon parties. Fredo is a member of the USBG New York chapter and rolls drinks at many Lounge, Swing, Jazz Age, & Burlesque events in New York City.

***Payman Bahmani will return in April for his weekly Happy Hour column and is honored to have Fredo tend the bar while away.

“Just a moment. Three measures of Gordon’s, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it’s ice-cold, then add a large thin slice of lemon peel. Got it?”

“Certainly, monsieur.” The barman seemed pleased with the idea.

“Gosh, that’s certainly a drink,” said Leiter.

Bond laughed. “When I’m…er…concentrating,” he explained, “I never have more than one drink before dinner. But I do like that one to be large and very strong and very cold and very well-made. I hate small portions of anything, particularly when they taste bad. This drink’s my own invention. I’m going to patent it when I can think of a good name.”

—Ian Fleming, Casino Royale

James Bond could do many things exceptionally–and simultaneously–well. His ability to disarm a nuclear weapon while driving a stickshift Aston Martin down a narrow cliffside road at 100 mph while dodging machine gun fire from enemies in an approaching helicopter while simultaneously pleasuring a Bond girl in the passenger seat, all with nary a millimeter’s shift in the fold of his always crisp-white pocket square, has helped forge Bond’s image as the epitome of the fictionalized ideal man. If you’re an American male college grad looking to upgrade your game by learning the gentlemanly arts, chances are you’ve taken a few pointers from 007, be it his personal style, flair with the ladies, or cool temperament in sticky situations.

But of all the things Bond is emulated for, there’s one which leaves much to be desired: the way he took his cocktails. Sure, the man is to be commended for his willingness to consume high alcohol spirits while on a risky assignment. Hell, most people won’t even have a beer during lunch. And he’s also to be commended for being mindful about the types of drinks he enjoys depending on the occasion, time of day, etc. But his choice of cocktails, and particularly his preferred method of preparation, need not be emulated.

Take the ultra-dry, “shaken, not stirred” vodka Martini. Many serious cocktail drinkers (men and women) consider this a drink for pussies (in a previous post I mentioned how Bond’s preferred Martini has become the false standard bearer for Martini preparation). I mean, if you’re going to drink a Martini, then have a real one, with gin. When I’m behind the stick, not a night passes without at least one guy ordering an “ultra-dry, ice-cold vodka Martini, shaken,” in the most hyper-masculine voice he can muster. Unfortunately what he doesn’t realize–what they never realize–is that he’s basically asking for a flavorless, massively watered down beverage. I mean, do you really think your 10oz. steakhouse Martini glass is all liquor?

Now it’s been pointed out to me by my friend, style maven, cocktailian extroardinaire, blogger, and all around swell guy Fredo Ceraso of Loungerati that Bond’s drinking decisions were an elaborate part of his cover, and enabled him to blend in the scene while remaining alert enough to execute the mission. Most guys, however, are on a mission to get laid, and not commit espionage, so ordering Martinis a la Bond is just a foolish display of faux grown-upness, like the little girl who dresses in her mother’s oversized clothing and imagines herself as a grown woman in front of the mirror.

So you might be asking why I’m featuring one of Bond’s cocktails if I find them so disagreeable? The answer is that in the world of cocktails, minor adjustments can be the difference between the sublime and the second-rate, and that’s what I intend to show here.

007 eventually settled on the name Vesper for the cocktail he described, naming it after Bond girl Vesper Lynd. As it stands, it’s a recipe for a very dry and flat tasting drink. Sure you get flavor from gin, but the Lillet (which is not the same as the Kina Lillet asked for; Kina Lillet’s not been available for quite some time) is hardly noticeable. And then it’s shaken, which further waters down the drink and destroys the last thing the drink had going for it, it’s mouthfeel (texture).

Vesper
3 oz gin
1 oz vodka
1/2 oz Lillet Blonde (Kina Lillet’s no longer available; Cocchi Americano even better choice if you can get it)
lemon peel for garnish

Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail coupe or Martini glass and twist lemon peel over and into drink.

Now let’s set upon improving this drink. You could certainly start by stirring it instead of shaking, but we would still need to go further. David Wondrich, of Esquire magazine, recommends flipping the gin and vodka proportions, so that it’s 3 oz vodka to 1 oz gin. At first glance this seems counter-intuitive since we’re trying to bump up the character of this drink, not make it more bland by increasing the proportion of the most tame ingredient, the vodka. But Wondrich reasons that the gin tramples the Lillet, so switching the gin and vodka proportions allows the Lillet some room on stage to play out its role. After having tried this version, I still think it could be elevated a touch more by adding a few dashes of orange bitters. The bitters add much needed depth as they play up the gin and Lillet and give some backbone to the vodka.

Improved Vesper
3 oz vodka (I recommend Purity, a Swedish vodka made from winter wheat and barley)
1 oz gin (I recommend Beefeater Winter if you can get it)
1/2 oz Lillet Blanc (Cocchi Americano would be an even better option if available)
4 dashes Bitter Truth Orange Bitters
lemon peel for garnish

Stir! Stir! Stir ingredients in a mixing glass filled with cracked ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail coupe or Martini glass and twist lemon peel over and into drink.

It helps to use a vodka with some character, which is why I chose Purity. Karlsson’s is also a good choice but it’s potato-based, and Bond was actually onto something when he mentioned that a grain-based vodka would be slightly better in this cocktail. I also really like the unique botanicals in the new Beefeater Winter gin offering (cinnamon, nutmeg, pine, in addition to traditional juniper), which stands up excellently in this cocktail despite the single ounce portion.

Mais n’enculons pas des mouches.

*Got a cocktail question? Hit me on twitter @paystyle, email me at payman(at)lifesacocktail(dot)com, or simply drop me a comment below.

Before we had bars, we had places called taverns and saloons. And before we had Manhattans, Martinis, and other fancified cocktails, there was a drink which people simply referred to as a ‘whiskey cocktail.’

It was the early 19th century, and the term ‘cocktail’ referenced a simple drink composed of a spirit along with a bit of sugar, water, and bitters added to it; and all you had to do was specify your spirit of choice (assuming the establishment fancied such things as “choice”). So if you were a whiskey drinker you’d ask for a ‘whiskey cocktail,’ and you’d get a drink with a hefty dose of whiskey, a small cube of sugar to tame out its rough edges, just enough water to dilute the sugar, and a few dashes of bitters to bind everything together and remind you of the benefits of civil society. If ice was available, it was added to the mix for its well-known cooling effect.

Being the only game in town–at least as far as cocktails were concerned–it caught on like hotcakes and soon finer establishments like hotel bars began serving it. Since these places had access to exotic ingredients like citrus fruit, someone eventually got the bright idea of adding a twist of orange or lemon peel to it, which really elevated the drink with its aromatic oils.

Eventually the Industrial Revolution rolled in and brought with it advancements like refrigeration, which made ice available like it had never been before. Another thing that happened was we began getting all sorts of new ingredients over from Europe–things like Italian vermouth and Chartreuse–which opened the door for cocktail creativity like never before.

These conditions were like coal to a steam engine, kicking the cocktail craze into high gear as inventive barkeeps competed to concoct potions that would entice their customers and possibly get their names in the paper. This was the late 19th century, and it was the Golden Era of cocktails where men like “Professor” Jerry Thomas became veritable stars from behind the bar.

With the plethora of drinks now available, ‘whiskey cocktail’ was no longer a sufficient descriptor. To indicate you wanted an old fashioned whiskey cocktail, well, you now had to ask for an ‘old fashioned whiskey cocktail,’ and that’s how the Old Fashioned got its name. Change can surely be beneficial, and becoming officially canonized the Old Fashioned well.

Not all change was beneficial however. The Golden Era came to a crashing end in 1920 as Prohibition became the law of the land. If you were a bartender you were faced with the choice of changing careers or changing landscape. Those who had the talent fled to legally ply their trade in Cuba, Europe, or anywhere else that advertised itself as an ‘American style bar.’ Many others simply changed careers.

Secret speakeasies opened up across the land serving cheap rotgut liquor. But unlike the romantic lore of the seductive speakeasy, these places were not in business to serve you a fine cocktail. There was neither the ingredients nor the talent for such feats. The bartenders (if you could call them that) were really nothing more than low-level mob guys looking to move their way up the totem pole.

The problem was the swill they were serving was often too harsh to cram down ones throat, so talented or not, you needed to concoct something that helps get the stuff down. So they started mixing the liquor with all manner of juices and sugar and anything else they could do to tamp down the flavor of the turpentine-like fluid.

The Old Fashioned suffered perhaps the worst of these indignities, as people began muddling oranges and maraschino cherries into the drink and loading it up with club soda, turning it into a sickish sweet mush. Somehow even despite the end of Prohibition in 1933, this sacrilege version of an Old Fashioned has survived to become the version most people know to this day. Some of you may be reading this and thinking, “wait a minute, my grandfather drinks Old Fashioneds with the muddled fruit and he swears by them!” Well I hate to inform you pal, but your grandpa is a biotch.

Thankfully what was once a lost and forgotten cocktail has resurfaced over the last decade, as bars in big cities and bloggers have taken up the task of reintroducing this drink to the public. Here’s the original recipe:

Old Fashioned
2 oz whiskey (preferably rye but you can use bourbon)
1 sugar cube or tsp simple syrup
2-3 dashes Angostura bitters
orange, lemon, or grapefruit peel

Tools: muddler (if using sugar cube)
Glass: Old Fashioned glass (duh)

Place sugar or syrup in Old Fashioned glass and add the bitters. If using a sugar cube add a teaspoon of water and muddle it until partially dissolved. Add the whiskey along with ice (big solid chunks work better) and stir. Twist the citrus peel over the drink to release its oils and garnish it.

It doesn’t get any simpler than that, and once you’ll taste a properly made Old Fashioned you’ll hopefully never give another thought to muddling your fruit in it. Originally rye was used but you can use any whiskey you like, and truth be told you can even use rum, applejack, or any brown (oak-aged) spirit you like. Lastly, the citrus twist is not a mere garnish. It adds much to the drink and shouldn’t be neglected; you can use orange, lemon, grapefruit, or any combination thereof, as long as the peel is ripe with oils.

Now go make one for your grandpa!

*Got a cocktail question? Hit me on twitter @paystyle, email me at payman(at)lifesacocktail(dot)com, or simply drop me a comment below.

I really wanted to do a special Christmassey cocktail for you all but in the end I couldn’t really get my mental mojo into it– sorry, folks. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve always enjoyed the special feeling the season invokes despite being an avowed atheist. I think I’m like most people in that sense, who don’t get too caught up in the religiosity of the season yet are no less inclined to act on the natural urge to revel in the jolliness it invokes.

But when it comes to my drinking habits so far this season, my lips have yet to greet some egg nog. Maybe it has to do with not being invited to many holiday parties this year (what’s up with that?), or maybe I just haven’t had the urge, who knows. What I do know is that although this week’s cocktail may not invoke Christ’s spirit, it’s still perfect for the season, and if I do say so myself, it’s a damn good cocktail.

Cielo de Jalisco
2 oz añejo tequila
3/4 oz sweet vermouth (Vya is luscious and full-bodied and wonderful in this drink)
1 barspoon ginger syrup (there’s a recipe for it in this post)
1 dash Bitter Truth Xocolatl Mole Bitters
orange twist for garnish

Tools: barspoon, mixing glass, strainer
Glass: coupe or cocktail glass, pre-chilled

Fill a mixing glass with cracked ice and stir the ingredients until well chilled (at least 50 times if you have good ice). Strain into a cocktail glass and twist the orange peel over the drink to release its oils, then garnish it on the drink.

This is a cocktail I came up with last week as I was casually playing around, having been inspired by our editor’s Oaxacan adventures. The name translates to the “sky over Jalisco,” and it’s a rare example of what I call a “one hitter quitter,” when I create a cocktail and get the recipe exactly right on the first try.

The sweet vermouth and Xocolatl Mole Bitters play really well together and provide lots of depth; the ginger adds a nice touch of spice; while the anejo tequila provides a slightly woodsy yet pineappley and vegetal backdrop for what I think is a thoroughly enjoyable autumn/winter cocktail. If you have a penchant for the smoky, you can add a barspoon of good mezcal to the mix, cuz a lil’ mezcal ain’t hurt nobody!

Cheers and happy holidays!

*Got a cocktail question? Hit me on twitter @paystyle, email me at payman(at)lifesacocktail(dot)com, or simply drop me a comment below.